v a l l e j o n o c t u r n o: Travel

Our good fortunes took us to Thailand in 2009 and we were able to visit various Buddhist Temples including the large Wat Pho where one of the largest statues of the Buddha resides. Here is a description of the history of this temple from Wikipedia:

Wat Pho is one of Bangkok's oldest temples. It existed before Bangkok was established as the capital by King Rama I. It was originally named Wat Photaram or Podharam, from which the name Wat Pho is derived.^[4]^[9] The name refers to the monastery of the Bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya, India where Buddha is believed to have attained enlightenment.^[6]^[10] The date of the construction of the old temple and its founder are unknown, but it is thought to have been built or expanded during the reign of King Phetracha (1688–1703).^[6]^[11] The southern section of Wat Pho used to be occupied by part of a French Star fort that was demolished by King Phetracha after the 1688 Siege of Bangkok.^[12]

After the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767 to the Burmese, King Taksin moved the capital to Thonburi where he located his palace beside Wat Arun on the opposite side of the Chao Phraya River from Wat Pho. The proximity of Wat Pho to this royal palace elevated it to the status of a wat luang ('royal monastery').^[6]

In 1782, King Rama I moved the capital from Thonburi across the river to Bangkok and built the Grand Palace adjacent to Wat Pho. In 1788, he ordered the construction and renovation at the old temple site of Wat Pho, which had by then become dilapidated.^[1] The site, which was marshy and uneven, was drained and filled in before construction began. During its construction, Rama I also initiated a project to remove Buddha images from abandoned temples in Ayutthaya, Sukhothai, as well other sites in Thailand, and many of these retrieved Buddha images were kept at Wat Pho.^[13] These include the remnants of an enormous Buddha image from Ayuthaya's Wat Phra Si Sanphet destroyed by the Burmese in 1767, and these were incorporated into a chedi in the complex.^[14] The rebuilding took over seven years to complete. In 1801, twelve years after work began, the new temple complex was renamed Phra Chetuphon Vimolmangklavas in reference to the vihara of Jetavana, and it became the main temple for Rama I.^[15]^[16]

The complex underwent significant changes over the next 260 years, particularly during the reign of Rama III (1824-1851 CE). In 1832, King Rama III began renovating and enlarging the temple complex, a process that took 16 years and seven months to complete. The ground of the temple complex was expanded to 56 rai (22 acres), and most of the structures now present in Wat Pho were either built or rebuilt during this period, including the Chapel of the Reclining Buddha. He also turned the temple complex into a public center of learning by decorating the walls of the buildings with diagrams and inscriptions on various subjects.^[9]^:90 On 21 February 2008, these marble illustrations and inscriptions was registered in the Memory of the World Programme launched by UNESCO to promote, preserve

and propagate the wisdom of the world heritage.^[17]^[18] Wat Pho is regarded as Thailand’s first university and a center for traditional Thai massage. It served as a medical teaching center in the mid-19th century before the advent of modern medicine, and the temple remains a center for traditional medicine today where a private school for Thai medicine founded in 1957 still operates.^[19]^[20]

The name of the complex was changed again to Wat Phra Chetuphon Vimolmangklararm during the reign of King Rama IV.^[1] Apart from the construction of a fourth great chedi and minor modifications by Rama IV, there had been no significant changes to Wat Pho since. Repair work, however, is a continuing process, often funded by devotees of the temple. The temple was restored again in 1982 before the Bangkok Bicentennial Celebration.^[21]

Friends and family have always been asking us about what to do and where to go when visiting San Juan. So with the help of Elis here is a list of options/ recommendations prepared by Elis originally and updated by our family based on recent visits and post-catastrophe results which in truth has put many businesses on the brink and changed the business landscape. We will keep this up to date so it will be usable moving forward. We focus on the essential: history, food, drink, and playa.

Vallejo Nocturno 2020 - Calle Sol at Sunset

Most of our recommendations are for San Juan proper, and should be helpful if you have 4-5 days on the Isla Bonita but if you are adventurous there are a lot of places you could visit as the island is small.

Viejo San Juan, Old San Juan

If you're staying outside of Viejo San Juan a bit farther outside of San Juan, it's worth doing a day trip or evening trip into Viejo San Juan, the old part of Colonial Puerto Rico. You'd need to do a Uber, rent a car, or talk with hotel on best/reliable transport. Some resorts do shuttles and give you a # to call when you want to get picked up. The origin of Viejo San Juan dates back to 1508, way before any British or Germans had touched North America, when Spaniard Ponce de Leon founded the original settlement of Caparra. Here's a short but important history from Wikipedia on the famed old city. Thanks to anthropologist/archeologist Ricardo Alegria the old parts of Viejo San Juan have not been razed but restoration has taken place over the last 60 years with no new architecture added to the historic district.

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- Home on Calle Sol

Viejo San Juan

We can name about 50 different places worth checking out around Viejo San Juan, but sometimes it's just as fun exploring on your own-this area is very safe unlike areas like santurce or even El Condado. Here is a decent self-guided walking tour that will hit the highlights.

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- Cementerio Santa Maria Magdalena and La Perla behind it

That said, here are some recommendations, depending on the time of day that you go -

1. Mallorcas for Breakfast

Mallorcas are a Puerto Rican sweet bread, that is best in the AM with coffee. Usually comes with powered sugar on top. You can get it with butter, cheese, jam, etc. The BEST spot is La Bombonera. It should be open after much renovation.

Fun read from the New York Times on this historical place.

2. El Morro

Vallejo Nocturno 2020 -El Morro

It's the 400 year old fort that the Spaniards used to protect the city. So lots and lots of history. There's an entrance fee, because it's a national historic site. It's just on the northwestern tip of Old San Juan, though as you get into the old part of San Juan you'll see the fort walls along the coast. Just Below and east of the fort is one of the oldest cemeteries in San Juan, located along the coast. If you're up for some history it's worth checking out.

Vallejo nocturno 2020- Plaza de la Beneficencia

3. Around Hotel El Convento for drinks and more

San Juan is Catholic Country. You can check out the Cathedral in Old San Juan. Or, potentially more relaxing and enjoyable, you can check out the terrace restaurant at El Convento, the hotel that is situated in the Old Convent.

It's lovely Spanish architecture, plus the courtyard has trees that have grown and taken over. It's worth going and grabbing a drink or small bites before continuing to explore. Foto on the side is Vallejo Nocturno 2020- Inside El Convento

Across the street is a great dive bar (most bars in Old San Juan are dive bars), El Batey . Hunter S. Thompson resided in San Juan back in the late 50's and he wrote a novel, The Rum Diary, while sipping on rum in the mornings. Here is a link to a Guardian story about the different bars in old San Juan-interestingly the guy ends his bar hop in El Batey. Foto of below.

Across the small plaza is a small Spanish Tapas restaurant, that is definitely worth getting tapas in, Rosa de Triana. Sometimes they do live music or flamenco dancing.

Another good place for drinks is Factoria Vino which has gotten great praise on their masterful cocktails.

4. La Casa Blanca - This museum and historical site is a short walk from El Convento and it's a must see if you are interested in the history of Puerto Rico, as the residence of Ponce de Leon which he unfortunately did not reside in since he died before it was finished in 1521.

5. Who doesn't love a Rooftop Wine Bar ?

Al Fresco Rooftop - Go here and head straight on up to the top. The 2nd floor is a bar that serves excellent local cocktails and has a nice vibe and ambience. Examine the memorabilia on the walls detailing Albizu Campos, where the very famous Independista made home in this place in the early 20th century. Perfect for post-rain sunset with rainbows (these happen so often). They have good tapas and during Happy Hour drinks and tapas are 50% off. Hurry! Needless to say try the special rum concoctions.

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- 2nd floor bar at Al Fresco Winebar where Albizu Campos, famed Independentista resided in the early 20th century

Or if you want some place in Viejo San Suan that's off the normal path, check out the roof deck or patio at Gallery Inn. It's an inn bought by an older artsy lady who kept having artists and musician friends stay with her, that she realized she should just turn the place into an inn. Very very kooky but cool atmosphere. It's in La Perla technically, which is traditionally the poorer part of Viejo San Juan, but it actually sits on top outside the less developed area. As their site correctly notes, "The Gallery Inn is comprised of 300 year old buildings that can safely withstand earthquakes like the ones experienced this year."

5. Some Dining Options in Old San Juan-not many as the really good food is in El Condado, Santurce or in Guaynabo/Hato Rey:

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- Closed Shop in Viejo San Juan

Carli's Fine Bistro and Piano Bar - Good jazz , drinks, and dining. This place belongs and is run by the pianist and arranger for the Beachboys back in their haydays-yes, he is Puerto Rican.

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- Restaurant El Ladi

El Ladi- Located in Puerta de Tierra is not in Old San Juan proper but fairly close by. Originally from Salinas this restaurant serves good seafood and has a great modern design and view. The big dish here is a Chillo with Mojo Isleno. Take a camera.

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- La Rogativa in Viejo San Juan

Playas!

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- Playa El Escambron

1. Escambron - There's ~$5 or $10 fee to park here, but that's nice because you know your car is secure and there are lifeguards on duty. It has a reef so great for snorkeling (though you can see the fish without any goggles!). The view is great because you can see Viejo San Juan to the left of the beach. It's great to get there early, set up a spot (take a beach umbrella if you can, else plenty of palm trees to set up underneath). This beach will get crowded on the weekends and people bring their own grills and music (so can get a bit overwhelming later).

Vallejo Nocturno 2018- La Pocita

2. La Pocita (Pinones) - It's a 20 min drive from Condado and the hotel area in San Juan. There's a reef that blocks most of the waves, which means it's a super tranquil beach. Great for small kids or people who would rather be chill in the water. It's close to the Airport so you can watch airplanes take off as well. they have a small kiosks on the way out there to grab some roadside foods as well. I'd recommend putting valuables in the trunk before you head over, since there's no security to watch the parking area.

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- Playa Aviones

3. Aviones Beach- This new find is at the entrance to Pinones, behind the restaurants and bars that you should try. One's that we have tried in the area include Tranquil and few people find this beach as its directly hidden from view. From a fan on TripAdvisor. There are food kiosks around the corner from the pay-to-park beach that have tons of restaurants you can walk over to and eat at Mi Casita or Carmin's are good bets. Waterfront has an amazing view-sip your beer or rum here.El Nuevo Acuario is considered the cream of the crop which we will try our next time there.

Vallejo Nocturno 2008- Playa Isla Verde

4. Isla Verde - Near the airport this municipal beach is also very nice for tranquil sunbathing and swimming during the week when very few locals go to it. On weekends it is very popular.

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- Ocean Park Beach in San Juan

5. Ocean Park - The beach here is in the residential section of the island, so much less populated. You have to find parking on the street by the homes, but you can get lucky and not walk too far. Wind Surfers like to surf out here so you'll get better waves and get a good view. There are a few bed and breakfasts that have beach bars in this area as well.

Vallejo Nocturno 2010-Mar Chiquita

6. Mar Chiquita - - Is a 45 minute drive from San Juan but a great beach for photos. The beach on one side has a rock break so there are great waves on that side that fan out. on the right of that area is the part of the beach people will actually swim or dip into. You can also climb the rocks and watch as the waves hit. We have a family Vacation house over there as well if you're ever interested in stay over there - https://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p954452 - The Mar Chiquita House <-- family beach house. The hurricane did change the topography of the beach so its not as spectacular as it was before.

7. Luquillo - In Luquillo you can go to the beach where you can pay to park, which means your car will be more secure, or if you prefer to go to the less crowded side, you can go here: https://goo.gl/maps/m6USz1RHjuRENq8K6 which is more residential for parking, but has nice trees you can hide underneath.

In Puerto Rico you can take coolers with drink and food to the beach including beer (Medallas or Heineken) to stay hydrated-a must.

Restaurants Outside of Old San Juan #1

There are various areas that offer good dining and fun near the beach and Viejo San Juan- they include El Condado, Santurce, Isla Verde, and Ocean Park-here are some recommendations:

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- Oceano Restaurant at Sunset

Oceano - - it's a restaurant right on the water. Good food, but a little pricey but if you stick with the appetizers and munch tapas style you will have some great bites.. Think of it more for the Miami crowd. Nice place for lunch on the water though or to watch the sunset.

Bodegas Compostela - This place is near Condado but in Santurce and is definitely high dining, Spanish style. Incredible wine selection, pricy, but definitely worth every penny for a style of cousine you will not get in the states.

Bodegas Compostela

Santaella- Considered a very trendy restaurant this place comes highly recommended from the local fine dining establishment though we have never been there. Its run by a local celebrity chef that has an international reputation. We will visit it soon.

La Casita Blanca - - This is a prime example of home-cooked puerto rican food. It's a large house on the corner of a more working class neighborhood. The menu changes daily and it's shown to you on a white board, and if you don't want deep fried food or tons of rice & beans pass up on it. It'll also help if you're comfortable speaking Spanish.

La Placita - - This is a big spot for nightlife in San Juan, there are bars there and a few places you can just walk up and grab a beer. it's basically a large outdoor plaza. People will dance in the streets or in the bars. You should Uber to this area as parking can get very hectic at night when everyone congregates here.

Airelibre Restaurant in Santurce - Our chef relative took us to this very typical and super-friendly place ina a really out of the way place in Santurce. The food here is typical PR and space is one for drinking and chatting. Do not confuse with other restaurant in San Juan with almost a similar name. This one is on Calle Las Delicias and its walking distance from La Placita.

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- A fried snapper at Airelibre

Ceviche House- This Peruvian run seafood establishment in Isla Verde has been there for over 20 years. Authentic high quality ceviche and pisco sours. Great tostones. Highly recommended. Our kids had their first PR ceviche here when they were toddlers. Pescado alo Macho is superb.

Orrozco's- Authentic PR fare in this small place on the Condado main walkway. Economical and very good.Roast pork and tostones are solid.

Restaurants in San Juan #2

These are more inland and in the "suburbs" surrounding metropolitan San Juan-they are a 15 minute ride from Old San Juan and should be visited for the ambience and culinary fare.

Argentos - We just dined here recently and the Argentinian fare is authentic and top notch. It's next to a good and varied mall, San Patricio, if you need to get some shopping done. But I'd concentrate on the diverse cuts of meat. In Guaynabo in San Patricio. Below a milanesa at Argentos.

El Granero - Another meat restaurant but this place focuses more on American cuts. Small and intimate this place doesn't even look like a restaurant but inside it has good wines and accompaniments to you top slice of beef. Only open in the evenings. In Guaynabo near San Patricio.

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- El Granero's fine beef

El Chotis de Avila - Perhaps the best Spanish restaurant in all of the Island. Both the wine and authentic Spanish dishes are worth going here. Though there are plenty of tables its also a good experience to eat in the bar area. Very active as this is near the courthouse in Hato Rey and is packed with hungry lawyers talking shop. We try and eat here every time we are in town.

Casa Italia- This fabulous Italian restaurant sits at the corner of the street where our family resides so we have ventured here on various occasions to celebrate life. Small but cozy Chef Alberto is a wizard at cooking his authentic Italian dishes. This is in Hato Rey but a must if you want to sample the best Italian fare in San Juan.

La Cevicheria & Up in Smoke- Down the street from El Chotis there is open air food stands that are worth trying. One is Peruvian ceviche and pisco sours very reasonably priced and the other is a barbecue/smoke house that is usually packed. The crowds can pack it in but a fun place to rub shoulders with a middle class local crowd. On friday's and saturdays around the local restaurants on this small backstreet there is music and DJs blaring.

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- At La Cevicheria late on Friday

Mistura - Another very good Peruvian restaurant with diverse Peruvian dishes-its in Hato Rey. Try the causa or Chaufa rice after your obligatory ceviche. Or a lomo saltado.

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- In El Yunque

Some Possible Road Trips

Here are some fun daytrips that will take you to unique places-Puerto Rico is a small island but it has a variety of environments.

El Yunque - The US National Rainforest

http://www.fs.usda.gov/elyunque

It's amazing, and if you only go to PR once, it's where you should visit. It's just this wonderful rainforest in the northeast mountains. It's a little rainy these days, but if you're lucky you'll get to go in the AM (before the storms hit and before the park gets full with visitors). There are great hiking trails and you can usually go swimming in the waterfalls. Because it's a national park there's a fee, but it's usually under $10. Since Maria, they are still working to open up a lot of the trails there, it's worth looking up on their site to see what is open when visiting. You should be able to access Yokahu Tower, which gets you a great view from the mountain. You can see Loquillo from there too.

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- Stream in El Yunque

Laguna Grance, The Bioluminecent Bay, Fajardo

Another adventure, a bit of a drive, but totally something the hotel could arrange is kayaking or paddling out in the bioluminescent bay at night in Fajardo. Usually ~$50 a person, with times around 5 & 7pm, you get to kayak out in the lagoon for ~2 hrs.

Long ago they prohibited or limited swimming there to keep the bio-luminescent wildlife safe.

The peak season for the bay is between March and November, so it may not be as bright and lively as it is during other times of the year. If you're interested, I'd ask the hotel who they recommend. Else, Yelp is generally great at weeding out the good tours and rental places.

Central Puerto Rico for day trips

1. Casa Bavaria - If you're up for a fun day trip into the central mountains, it's worth going up to this beer garden. you can do roadside stops up along the way for BBQ as well - this is known as chinchoreando in PR. It has a great view of the mountains from up there and great beer and snacks. Probably should do it with someone who knows the island and can drive you.

2. FOK Brewing Co - a 35 - 45 min drive from San Juan https://goo.gl/maps/gdNqaBWudhC6PoDG8 - Head over to Caguas for a little brewery tour. They have live music, outdoor patio on the river, and food trucks serving up meals.

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- Salinas Ocean Front

3. Coastal Trip to Salinas- About an hour drive from San Juan through scenic mountains this fishing village has excellent high quality seafood restaurants - El Balcon del Capitan or Restaurante Tus Antojos .

Vallejo Nocturno 2020- Mojo Isleno on a Chillo at El Balcon del Capitan

4. Rum Tasting at El Barrilito - This is the best rum by far from Puerto Rico and trying their top notch rums is an experience. Though we have drunk many a bottle of Barrelito- sipping straight or on ice is the way to go- we have yet to visit the tasting room but all of our relatives swear by the experience. Here's a link to their tasting tour.